For a wine to give out a distinctive flavour or character is normally seen as a plus. Not in the case of wines from the Cape. The talking point in South African wine right now is an unpleasant off-odour and taste in some bottles – described variously as burnt rubber, rhubarb or sun-dried tomato. No one knows what it is, but you know it when you see, or rather, smell and taste, it.
The topic may be hot, but it's hardly new. When a group of British Masters of Wine visited the Cape way back in 1976, they described pinotage, South Africa's own red grape variety, as smelling of "rusty nails". It set the pinotage cause back by years. Today's off-odour may well be similar to the "rusty nails" taint that was ascribed by some to the virus problems that have afflicted South African vineyards over the years, and by others, such as the late wine writer David Wolfe, as a "taste of apartheid".
It was with limited expectations, then, that I spent a May Sunday afternoon before this year's annual Trophy Wine Show in the Cape tasting 27 mature South African wines from vintages between 1983 and 1940, all procured by the show's chairman, Michael Fridjhon. Some, like the 1982 Rustenberg, the 1974 Nederburg Auction Cabernet, 1969 Zonnebloem Cabernet and the 1966 G S Cabernet Sauvignon, rivalled top Bordeaux reds for complexity and longevity. Others were starting to dry out. Yet there was not even the faintest whiff of that unpleasant taint.
None the less, the South African wine industry is aware there is a problem, even if it's not very good at detecting it. For that reason, a panel of tasters was assembled in London last month to look at the issue – their findings are being analysed to try to get to the bottom of it. Watch this space. Meanwhile, as the Trophy Show got under way, I judged an impressive line-up of sauvignons, sweet white and red muscats, vintage and tawny "ports", and a range of Bordeaux-style blends and merlots. Some of the red blends showed real quality. Others displayed faults relating to poor winemaking, cork taint and vineyard issues of stress-related greenness and heat-related jammy portiness. Yet in only one wine did I come across that unmistakeably yucky "it-could-only-be-South-African" pong.
I feel that the issue of taint is relatively minor compared with the other cellar and vineyard problems of the Cape. The 1970s were a particularly bad time for viruses in South Africa's vineyards, but it looks as if the problem doesn't lie in virus-affected vines alone.
But let's not overlook the positives in South African wine. Not much more than a decade ago, the wine industry was more or less confined to the "golden triangle" of Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl, while today's producers are more adventurously "New World". It's heartwarming to see that a new generation of savvy winemakers has expanded the frontiers of wine to select the right match between location and grape variety.
The furore over the reds has also obscured the fact that, after a long and elusive search involving shiraz and Rhone-style blends, South African wine producers have begun to put their fingers on a valid new style to compete with Bordeaux-based blends.
In a relatively short timespan, they have discovered, too, an ability to make distinctive sauvignons, semillons, chardonnays and chenin blancs in a variety of styles that don't ape the Loire, Bordeaux, Burgundy or New Zealand (and that are also good value).
I will aim to return to the subject of some of South Africa's top wines after the Trophy Show results are announced next month.
Worldwide drinks shortage on horizon as demand booms
By: Helen Arnold 26 May 2008
A booming market for alcoholic drinks in Brazil, China, India and Russia will lead to a world wide shortage, and will force established markets in the west to seek out alternative products, according to Alastair Smith of the IWSR speaking at the London Wine Fair earlier this week.
“The increased demand will lead to a shortage of Scotch, Cognac, Champagne and flavoured wines, and force established markets in the west to switch to different products,” he predicted. Brazil, China, India and Russia offer considerable growth opportunities for spirits and wine producers, with these four markets accounting for 50% of the total worldwide consumption of spirits, and 15% of wine. “There has been a huge rise in disposable incomes in these markets, and by 2015 there will be one billion people in the middle classes of these countries who will be target consumers,” said Smith. “Asia and the CIS will become more important markets than the west.” However, that consumption is currently concentrated in small urban areas – Moscow, for example, accounts for around 70% of total Russian alcohol consumption, while India's is centred around the three main cities of Mumbai, Delhi and Bangalore. As demand from the east puts pressure on supplies of wines and spirits, alternative drinks such as Tequila, 90% of which is currently drunk in the US and Mexico will increase in popularity according to the IWSR. Modern style lighter Scotch, Irish Whiskey, super premium gin, vodka and sambuca are other spirits predicted to gain ground. Still light wine is the fastest growing imported alcoholic drink in Brazil, which is dominated by Chilean and Argentinean wines, two thirds of which is red.
Hong Kong government axes duty tax on wine Author: Catherine Mars Date published: 14 Mar 2008
The abolition of import duties on beer, wine and all alcoholic drinks except spirits is expected to promote the development of Hong Kong as the wine trading and distribution hub for Asia.
The removal of taxes on alcoholic drinks (announced on 27 February 2008) is part of a wider move in which a variety of taxes were slashed in a bid to stimulate investment and retain the territory's economic competitiveness as it posted a record budget surplus of HK$115.6 billion (US$14.8 billion). The tariff abolition follows a round of tax cuts on beer and wine last year which saw the duty on beer and other alcoholic drinks with no more than a 30% alcohol content halved from 40% to 20%, while that on wine was halved from 80% to 40%. To date, spirits have been exempt from tax cuts due to government concerns regarding the impact of spirits consumption on health.
Although Hong Kong is a free port with no tariffs on general imports, duties were imposed on alcoholic drinks products, tobacco, hydrocarbon oil and methyl alcohol. The decision to lower taxes on beer and wine in 2007 and then remove them this year was driven by a number of factors. In addition to strong economic growth and the resultant budget surplus, coordinated lobbying efforts by advocates including consulates, trade and the tourism industry as well as the lack of consumer group objections to the tax reductions implemented last year also prompted the abolition of taxes.
The high level of taxation on alcoholic drinks has been a major obstacle to the country's development as a regional hub for wine trading and distribution. In fact, following the elimination of taxes, further measures, including the removal of administrative controls, are expected in order to facilitate increased import, export and storage of alcoholic beverages in Hong Kong.
Asian wine hub
Growing Asian affluence (the region has the seen the highest growth of GDP measured at purchasing power parity, 10% CAGR between 2002 and 2007) has made the region an important source of growth for the world wine trade. Wine consumption in Asia has risen sharply in recent years (total volume sales were up by 9% between 2005 and 2007, accounting for almost 50% of global volume gains over this period) and the region is forecast to see the most dynamic wine growth over the next five years. It is estimated that 40% of the US$1.3 billion worth of fine wine traded annually in London is already being sold to consumers from Hong Kong and mainland China, signalling a distinct opportunity to shift business to Hong Kong. In fact, following the removal of taxes, Hong Kong is set to become the third wine trading hub globally, after London and New York.
Wine prices in Hong Kong are likely to fall by between 15% and 20% which will give the territory an edge over rivals such as Singapore and Tokyo. Additionally, the territory's proximity to mainland China is advantageous as over time the country will become more and more important as a fine wine market. With its population of 1.3 billion, the expanding Chinese market will be one of the greatest demand forces impacting wine in Hong Kong. Hong Kong now shares many of the attributes that have made London a wine trading hub - low duties, lack of domestic producers and a strong consumer base. London International Vintners Exchange (Liv-ex), the London-based electronic exchange for fine wine, is expected to set up a Hong Kong office to capitalise on the growing market in China. The Hong Kong Trade Development Council is organising the first Hong Kong International Wine Expo which will be held in August 2008, providing a business platform for trade players to exchange and explore opportunities.
SA WINES WIN GOLD 28 May 2007 By Dominique Herman
South Africa won 195 medals - 48 more than last year - at the recent 2007 International Wine Challenge in London, billed as the world's largest blind wine-tasting competition.
Of the 9 358 wines from 35 different countries, 260 gold medals were awarded, of which 12 went to South Africa.
The number of gold medals awarded represented 2,8 percent of the total entry (as opposed to 3,38 percent last year).
Fleur du Cap was one of two South African producers to win two gold medals, and its 2006 Unfiltered Viognier Limited Release was the only Viognier to win gold.
Newly established boutique producer Constantia Glen won gold for its 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, its second vintage.
The top three medal winning nations remained the same as last year: France, Australia and Italy.
The wines were judged by 400 winemakers, merchants and writers of 19 nationalities, including 33 Wine Masters and widely published wine writers such as Jancis Robinson and Michael Fridjhon.
5th Seoul International WINE & SPIRITS EXPO - May 2nd-4th 2007
24 April 2007
Slent Farm is very proud to announce that we will be attending to the 5th Seoul International WINE & SPIRITS EXPO, May 2nd-4th 2007, Pacific Hall, COEX.
Join us to enjoy a nice glass of wine together!
Our booth is at South Africa Pavilion number G01.
Looking forward to meeting you!
FORT SIMON DOES IT AGAIN ! 20 March 2007
At the recent Wijnkennis.be South African project in Belgium, several wines were tasted from all the major South African cultivars, and regions.
The wines were tasted blind, and the Fort Simon Chenin Blanc, which was the only wine entered by the Estate was awarded 5 stars.
This follows on from the 2005 vintage, which was awarded the best Chenin Blanc at the prestigious South African Juliet Cullinan Wine Connosuiers Awards. The wine was also awarded 4 stars in the John Platter Guide.
PRESS RELEASE -- SA AUTHORS WIN PRESTIGIOUS INTERNATIONAL AWARD
19 December 2006
More than 50 centuries ago the art of writing was first invented and great masters like Shakespeare, Mozart and Einstein practised this art with phenomenal success. On 6 December 2006, two local authors, Elmari Swart and Izak Smit joined the ranks of writing masters with a superb performance at the Gourmand International Awards.
Cheviot Publishing has the great pleasure to inform you that their publication Essential Guide to South African Wines have won the Best Book on New World Wines (English) at the 2006 Gourmand International Awards in Europe.
For more information on this book, or to order a copy, please click here
MEDIA RELEASE
JOHN PLATTER SA WINE GUIDE
22 August 2006
John Platter SA Wine Guide Announces 25 Five-Star Wines For 2007
The John Platter SA Wine Guide has announced 25 five-star wines to be featured in the upcoming 2007 edition, the highest number since the reference book was first published in 1980. The announcement is the culmination of several months of intensive tasting, by an internationally experienced team, of nearly 6 000 individual wines. These were sampled and ranked according to the guide's five-point scale, which ranges from 0 stars ('Somewhat less than ordinary') up to 5 stars ('Superlative. A Cape classic').
In the course of this year's evaluations, the guide's tasters identified 76 candidate five-stars across a variety of categories, including reds and whites, dessert wines and port styles. As previously, only finished/bottled wines, available during the currency of the guide, were considered. The short-listed wines were then judged 'blind' by a full panel of the guide's tasters.Andrew McDowall, publisher, says: 'Our policy remains to taste and assess, as far as is practically possible, all of the wines that are available for the duration of the particular edition, locally as well as abroad. Given the enormous number of ranges and individual products tasted, the wines which merit a five-star rating make up a very select group indeed.'Analysing the results, he added: 'Port and dessert styles always feature in the five-star line-up, and this year is no exception with three unfortified desserts and four port-style wines achieving the top rating.
'For the first time, the number of white wines found deserving of a five-star rating almost matches that of the reds – eight whites compared with ten reds. 'For the first time, too, chenin blanc shines as a variety, with three five-stars out of six nominated wines. Cabernet sauvignon is also one of the strong classes, with three five-stars from seven nominees, and shiraz with five from 14 five-stars contenders. 'There are also several producers who feature more than once in the line-up this year, namely Boekenhoutskloof, Boplaas, Cape Point Vineyards and Rudera. 'Teddy Hall, Rudera co-owner and winemaker, deserves special mention as he made two of the five-star chenins (Rudera Robusto and De Morgenzon, the latter as consultant for brand owners Wendy and Hylton Appelbaum) plus his own Rudera Cabernet Sauvignon.
'We would like to extend our congratulations to all the five-star winegrowers, and of course to the makers of the balance of the five-star contenders, whose names will be unveiled with the book launch in November,' McDowall continued. 'Our Wine of the Year will be announced at the same time, along with the name of the 'Superquaffer' of the Year - the wine judged to be the most drinkable and well-priced of all the entry-level bottlings tasted for the current edition. Suffice to say wine lovers are in for a pleasant surprise.' A selection of the five-star wines will be served at the South African Generic Tasting in London during October.
The 2007 edition will be available from November 2006.
The five star wines for 2007 are:
Wine
Vintage
Category
Cape Point Vineyards Limited Release (Woolworths)
2006
Sauvignon blanc
Cape Point Vineyards Isliedh
2005
White blends
Vergelegen White
2005
White blends
Hamilton Russell Vineyards
2005
Chardonnay
Waterford Estate
2005
Chardonnay
Spier Private Collection
2005
Chenin blanc
De Morgenzon
2005
Chenin blanc
Rudera Wines Robusto
2005
Chenin blanc
Bouchard Finlayson Tête de Cuvée Galpin Peak
2003
Pinot noir
Fairview Solitude
2004
Shiraz
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah
2004
Shiraz
Raka Biography
2004
Shiraz
Hartenberg Estate The Stork
2004
Shiraz
Saxenburg Select
2003
Shiraz
Ernie Els Wines 'Ernie Els'
2004
Red blends
Neil Ellis Wines Vineyard Selection
2004
Cabernet sauvignon
Boekenhoutskloof Cabernet Sauvignon
2004
Cabernet sauvignon
Rudera Wines
2003
Cabernet sauvignon
Ken Forrester ‘T' Noble Late Harvest Chenin Blanc
2005
Dessert wine unfortified
Paul Cluver Weisser Riesling Noble Late Harvest
2005
Dessert wine unfortified
Signal Hill Eszencia
NV
Dessert wine unfortified
De KransVintageReservePort
2004
Port
JP Bredell Wines Cape Vintage Reserve
2001
Port
BoplaasVintageReservePort
2004
Port
Boplaas CapeTawny Vintner's ReservePort
1980
Port
California Wine Pioneer Harold P. Olmo Dies
By THE ASSOCIATED PRESS Published: July 9, 2006
DAVIS, Calif. (AP) -- Harold P. Olmo, a renowned viticulturist who played a key role in shaping California's wine industry, has died. He was 96. Olmo died of complications from a hip fracture at a Davis convalescent home on June 30, according to the University of California, Davis, where he worked as a researcher and professor for nearly a half-century.
Olmo's travels around the world to track down and gather rare, ancient and endangered grape vines earned him the nickname ''Indiana Jones of Viticulture.'' During his career, he was responsible for developing some 30 grape varieties and improving, authenticating and helping preserve many others. ''What he's left behind isn't just the varieties he created, but the huge genetic resource he brought to Davis,'' said Andrew Waterhouse, interim chair of UC Davis' department of viticulture and enology. A native of San Francisco, Olmo earned a bachelor's degree in horticulture from UC Davis and UC Berkeley, then a doctoral degree in genetics from UC Berkeley. He joined UC Davis' faculty in 1931. By developing varieties that would ripen sooner or later in the year, and grow in areas previously considered hostile, Olmo was instrumental in expanding and diversifying California's agricultural profile. His work with table grapes led him to develop varieties such as Christmas rose, the ruby seedless and the perlette. In 1948, he introduced his first wine grape, the ruby cabernet. He went on to develop the emerald riesling, centurion, carnelian, symphony, rubired and many others. But it was his work with chardonnay that revolutionized California's wine industry. When he began researching it, chardonnay was a minor player in the state, its vines covering just 50 acres in 1960. After he developed a variety with larger clusters and greater disease resistance, its popularity soared.
Today it is the most widely planted wine grape in the state, with 100,000 acres grown this year out of the state's 900,000 acres of grape vines, said Andy Walker, Olmo's successor as grape breeder and geneticist at UC Davis. ''The whole basis of the chardonnay industry, going from being an insignificant grape to the most important variety in California, is his work,'' Walker said.
Olmo has been awarded Guggenheim and Fulbright fellowships. He retired from UC Davis in 1977, though he kept an office on campus and continued his research until just before his death. Olmo is survived by three children and six grandchildren. His wife, Helen Miller, died in 2000.
UK's love affair with wine goes flat 22 May 2006 WILLIAM LYONS - WINE CORRESPONDENT (The Scotsman)
WE HAVE been sozzled but now we may be saturated. After a spectacular 25 years of rising wine consumption in Britain, sales have now gone into decline.
New research by market analysts reveals that wine-quaffing in the UK has risen solidly every quarter of a year since the early 1980s, with the British love affair with the noble grape showing no signs of diminishing. A traditionally beer and spirits-drinking island has been turned into the most dynamic and important wine market in the world.
But figures to be published this week show that wine consumption has ground to a halt just below the 92 million case mark and is now in shallow decline. In the first 16 weeks of 2005, Britain drank 313 million bottles of wine. But in the same period this year, just 308 million bottles were downed - a fall of 1.5%. That translates to five million bottles and an awful lot of imbibing.
So far, analysts say it is too early to draw conclusions on what has caused the decline, but many in the industry fear that a combination of rising fuel prices and growing consumer debt has led many drinkers to start tightening their belts. The statistics have sent shockwaves through the British wine industry, which was forecasting that consumption trends would continue upwards. Stewart Blunt, the wine analyst at AC Nielsen, which carried out the research, said: "This is a real wake-up call for the wine industry. Historically, the market has risen in every quarter in living memory, and now it has pancaked flat.
"Minus 1.5% may not seem like a huge decline, but put it against its historical context and the expected projections, which were about 2% to 3% growth in the first quarter of 2006, then it is a very significant shift. Perhaps we [Britain] have reached a point of saturation and 92 million cases is all we can drink a year."
Britain's transformation into a nation of wine drinkers began in the 1970s, with the domestic craze for German brands such as Blue Nun and Liebfraumilch. By the early 1980s, New World wines from Australia, New Zealand, South America, California and certain parts of Europe, providing affordable, good-quality, easy-drinking wine, were expanding the market away from French and German territory. By the mid-1990s, wine was big business. Dull, gassy, chemical-tasting beer was taking a back seat to luscious, vanilla-flavoured, fruity wine. Suddenly a new generation of consumers, who had grown up drinking in wine bars, adopted the practises of the upper classes, drinking two or three bottles of wine a week.
Although beer consumption in the UK is still higher overall, the gap is rapidly closing. The average adult annual consumption of wine is now just below three gallons, compared with 2.46 gallons in 2000. France still tops the consumption league with 12.8 gallons. Economic belt-tightening may be just one reason for the downward slide in the UK. Wine producers are currently spending less on marketing because the practice of heavy discounting by supermarkets is eating into profits. On the other hand, there has been a resurgence in demand for traditional bottled beers produced by a new and growing breed of micro breweries.
Neil Beckett, editor of Harpers Wine and Spirit Monthly, said the research was a shock. "We all just assumed that the market would carry on growing, but the figures say something different," he said. "The fine wine auction market has been performing very well in recent years and that led to a belief that wine had become an affordable luxury and was not just the first item not to go into the shopping bag when times changed. "But there has been a lot of negative news about the economy, and when people do read how many millions of pounds we are collectively in debt they do get a fright."
Master of Wine Tim Atkin said he thought the figures were not just a statistical blip and reflected a deeper trend of concern to the industry. "It is worrying," he said. "There are a lot of people who have continued to import their wines to the UK even if they are not making enough money, because they think they are buying into a growing market. "If they find they are being required to pay considerable amounts of money to buy into a declining market then they are less likely to want to sell their wines here and that has inevitable consequences for consumer choice. "The trend has already started with the top producers, who have already decided that the UK is a bit of a dead loss and are looking to the States to sell their wine."
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